Gecko Care
Housing
An adult crested gecko will thrive best in a vertical tank that is 20 gallons or larger. Since they are aboral, height is more important than floor space. Hatchlings do best in a small cage where they can find their food and water easily. A tall, glass terrarium with a screen lid for ventilation is a good option. We use 18 x18x 24 glass tanks for adults. For juveniles, light weight (non-glass) 10-gallon tanks that have dark sides are ideal as the young geckos feel more secure. Every tank should have numerous climbing options, some ventilation, and plants (fake or live) so they can hide and feel safe. Placing waterproof re-writable labels on the tanks is a great way to keep track of the geckos.
Substrate
There are several different substrate options. Many breeders use paper towels since they are easy to clean and do not pose any ingestion risks. However, there are other substrates suitable for adult geckos that are more natural and help maintain humidity, such as coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, or bark. Another more advanced option is to create a bioactive enclosure, containing live plants and microfauna (like springtails and isopods) to help with waste cleanup and maintain the tank's humidity.
Temperature
Crested geckos are very sensitive to heat. Prolonged exposure to temperatures over 80°F can be fatal. The ideal daytime temperature is between 72–80°F, with a slight drop to 68–75°F at night. Monitor the tank to ensure they are at the correct temperature. We use easy to read digital monitors that display both temperature and humidity. Most households are kept at the same temperatures that cresties require; however, an AC might be necessary in hot climates. For colder climates, a room heater, low-wattage ceramic heat emitter or under-tank heat pad can provide supplemental warmth. Do not use heat rocks since they can cause burns. Always use a thermometer to monitor the tank temperature.
Humidity & Water
Geckos primarily drink from the water droplet on tank walls and plant leaves; however, always provide fresh clean water for your gecko! For humidity, mist the cage at night to bring the humidity up to around 80% and then let the tank humidity drop during the day to around 50%. This routine best mimics their natural environment. Too much humidity can result in bacteria and mold, while insufficient humidity can lead to dehydration, sunken eyes, and poor shedding. So, monitor their humidity. Digital humidity/temperature gages are considered the most accurate, but the stick on non-digital versions also work. The downside is they cannot easily be moved or transferred between tanks. Automatic misters (on timers) save a lot of work and keep the geckos misted if we have to be away for a night. A basic spray bottle will also suffice. In Colorado, where it is very dry, placing a piece of Plexiglas over half to three quarters of the screen top helps to retain the humidity.
Lighting
Crested geckos are nocturnal, which means they are most active at night. Therefore, they do not require an intense UVB light but a lower level 2.5 - 5% can be beneficial while also improving tank aesthetics and supporting live plants if any are present. Cycle the lights to match their circadian rhythm (12-14 hours of light per day). This can be accomplished with a timer. We have been using small strip lights that do not emit heat and are easy to move around.
Diet
Crested gecko nutrition has come a long way since this species was first introduced into the pet trade. There are several brands of high quality powdered commercial crested gecko diet (CGD) food that is mixed with water. At Colorado Cresties, we several varieties of feed Pangea, and they really seem to like the Fig and Insect formula and the Growth and Breeding formula. Most owners feed their geckos a quarter-sized amount of powered food every other day. Be sure to remove uneaten food before it spoils. There are several magnetic food dishes that keep the food from spilling, including natural looking ones and artificial ones.
In addition to a complete powered food, you can offer gut-loaded (fed a nutritious diet) insects (e.g. crickets, dubia roaches, wax worms) once or twice a week. Wax worms are a good option because they lack a hard exoskeleton and are quiet (unlike crickets) and less likely to escape. They come in a container that can be stored in the fridge. Remember, insects should be no larger than the space between your gecko’s eyes and may be dusted with a calcium / vitamin D3 supplement.
Note that a complete CGD already contains the required vitamins and calcium, so additional supplements do not need to be added to powered food. Also, it can take a new gecko several weeks to eat when they are introduced to a new environment.
Behavior & Handling
Many crested geckos are shy and jumpy at first (especially juveniles). but they settle down quickly and generally become tame and friendly. When your new gecko arrives, give it at least a month to settle in and acclimate to its new surroundings. When you start to handle your gecko, limit the time to around 20 minutes a day, and try to plan your interaction with them in the evening (remember, they are nocturnal).
